This is a quick guide to getting started - please see the 'Common Questions' page for more in depth help.

We can take payment by cash, cheque (accompanied by a cheque guarantee card) or all major credit and debit cards.

 I ideally like to sell a minimum of two birds together.  If you are introducing them to an existing flock they seem much happier if they arrive with a 'friend'.  If you are starting from scratch, two birds would be the minimum you would need (three would be even better), as they cannot be kept alone and need company. 

 When you have picked your bird we will check them over thoroughly and clip their wings for you (if required).  If you are new to chicken keeping we will happily run through chicken care with you.

 When choosing the breeds you would like,  depending on how you are planning to keep them (free range or penned) will determine which hens are most suitable.  We know the birds and can advise which hens should be happy together in your individual situation. The breeds all have a distinctive personality and pecking order, and if they are going to be confined in a run some will get on better than others.

2. SETTLING THE BIRDS

It will take the hens a few days to work out where home is.  If they will be free ranging you will need to keep them in for at least 3 or 4 days to 'imprint' where to return to at night.  After this they can be let out and will return to the house at dusk to be shut in away from the fox.  If they are in a house with a run you can let them out into the run, but they may need to be lifted in to the house for the first few nights.

They need to perch up off the ground out of draughts, although some birds may need lifting up on to the perches for the first few nights to get the idea.

Even though they have been living together they will still have to sort out the new 'pecking order', and there may be some pecking and squawking for the first few days - just observe them to make sure no hens are being seriously bullied - if you ever see blood remove the hen immediately as the other will peck at blood incessantly (and to the death).  If a hen is being bullied she may be cut off from the food and water by the other hens, so do watch for this.  If the hens have plenty of space to keep out of each other's way and are not bored, all should be well after the initial settling in period.

If you are introducing the hens to your existing birds I strongly recommend not putting them into the coop until it is dark and the original hens are roosting.  They will then wake up together in the morning and hopefully not be as shocked by each other. If this fails, they will need to be kept separate but within sight of each of other for a while.

3. FEED

Layers pellets or mash should be available for the hens at all times.  Layers pellets are their staple diet and provide all the nutrients needed including calcium to make the shells (they will also get calcium from oyster shell).   If it is possible to hang up your feeder a few inches off the ground inside the house, it will stop the birds scratching it out all over the floor and wasting it, as well as discouraging mice.

They must also have access to clean water at all times - they drink more than you would expect - it takes a huge amount of water to produce an egg. 

Hang up vegetables and scraps in a bird feeder to keep the birds entertained.

4. LAYING

When the hens feel settled and they are old enough, they will start laying.  Expect them to lay at about 20-25 weeks, although it may be a bit earlier or later.  You can expect some very small, soft shelled or odd shaped eggs to start with, but they will become larger and more uniform as the egg laying mechanism settles.

If your hens are already laying when you buy them, don't be surprised if  they stop laying for a week or two when they move house due to the stress.

The hens may not lay where you intend them to initially - I usually just remove any eggs laid in the wrong place and put them into the proper nest boxes- they soon seem to get the idea and start laying where the eggs are.

Please be aware that they are not machines, and there will be periods of time when you may not get any eggs or very few eggs.  Expecting an egg every day off every hen is not realistic.

5. TAMING THE BIRDS

The birds may be quite nervous when you first get them.  They will calm down and get friendly but please be aware that they are all very different personalities, and whilst some will be trying to get on your lap after a few weeks, others need their own space and prefer not to be handled.

 If you do want very friendly, tame birds bribe them with corn or scraps.  After a few days they will run to you for food and if handled gently will soon be eating out of your hand.

I know children love to pick them up, but try to encourage them to be gentle and not to squeeze the birds  - a broken egg inside the bird would be fatal.

 The hybrid hens have been fully vaccinated as follows: